6.8
At last, some Victoria's Secret without the angel wings.
I'm still stuck between calling The Tour 23 a clever marketing trick or a feast for the senses. Contradictions have always nested at the heart of the brand, between beauty and its toxic standards, so it's self-aware of them to highlight that in an audience-facing film. It's undeniable that the VS shows have held spectacle in high regard and cultivated a fanbase that outnumbers the actual consumers, but this film will feel like a treat even if you don't care for luxury wear. Even more, it's perhaps a bit too likable: it's lush without being kitschy, it's woke without the overt politics, it's fun, but not a joke, and most of all, it brings us closer to the visions of creators from around the world who have so much more to give than what they've given Victoria's Secret.
We're here for the glitz and the glam—lingerie, extravagant looks, and iconic models—but the real star of the show is... the set! The Xavier Corberó Centre in Barcelona is at once ancient and futuristic with its many colonnades, pillars, arches, and corridors which serve as a runway. Architecture becomes the main character as hard, naked concrete contrasts with exuberant designs blending the natural with the fantastic. Enhancing the use of a single location, the camera adjusts accordingly to each collection presented to us: handheld to fit the more grounded ones, and shaky handheld to underscore the experimental nature of the rest. The set comes alive to serve a canon of beauty, reconsidered.
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